Highlights
- Climb one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalayas
- Embark on an exhilarating mountaineering expedition
- Conquer Ama Dablam, a highly technical mountain via the Southwest Ridge
- Experience the famous Lukla flight
- Explore Sherpa villages like Namche Bazaar and Tengboche
- Enjoy trekking through rhododendron forests and small mountain villages, crossing thrilling suspension bridges
- Go on an acclimatization hike to Hotel Everest View from Namche Bazaar
- Climb with a very experienced, friendly, and professional team of mountaineers
- Learn technical climbing and hone your skills
- Enjoy breathtaking mountain panoramas and landscapes
- Explore Kathmandu, the city of temples
Overview
The Ama Dablam expedition is for experienced mountaineers who have climbed 6,000-meter peaks and now wish to conquer bigger mountains. Many climbers climb Ama Dablam before their Mt. Everest to hone their technical climbing skills. Some climbers also consider Ama Dablam equally or even more challenging than Everest.
Ama Dablam is one of the most sought-after 6,000-meter technical mountains in Nepal. Known for its stunning beauty, Mount Ama Dablam offers an incredible expedition-style climbing voyage in the Khumbu region of Nepal.
Mt. Ama Dablam is known as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas". It is located near Mount Everest and is famous for its unique pyramid shape and exposed ridges. Mountaineers use the Southwest ridge to climb Ama Dablam.
In the Nepali community, the long, stretched ridges are looked at like a mother embracing her children, which leads to the word Ama. Likewise, Dablam means the special pendant with the picture of the Gods.
Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961 by Mike Gill & Wally Romanes (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA) & Mike Ward (UK) from the southwest ridge. After that, the Southwest route became the most used route to conquer this mountain.
Ama Dablam expedition itinerary
The Amadablam expedition begins in Kathmandu, the city of temples and the capital of Nepal. We will meet in Kathmandu two days before the Lukla flight. The first day will be your arrival day. Our team will be there to welcome you at the international airport and transfer you to the hotel.
The second day, you will spend in Kathmandu, meeting with your Sherpa leader, attending the expedition briefing, and purchasing and packing climbing gear. If time allows, you may visit a few nearby tourist areas as well.
From Kathmandu, you will fly to Lukla. Yes, it is that famous Lukla flight to one of the most dangerous airports in the world. Well, it is not as dangerous as it has been portrayed due to its location and short runway.
Anyway, from Lukla, you will hike to Ama Dablam Base Camp. It will be 6 days of slow hiking through Sherpa villages and rhododendron-covered hills. You will spend nights in Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Pangboche villages on the way to Ama Dablam Base Camp.
If you are interested, you can consider extending the trek to Everest Base Camp before climbing Ama Dablam.
During the trek, you will explore the beautiful Nepalese mountain villages and the lush flora and fauna of the Sagarmatha National Park. The trek will present stunning scenery and wonderful mountain views of Thamserku, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and many other mountains.
Upon reaching the Ama Dablam Base Camp, the climbing phase begins. You will spend a few days at the base camp and go on rotation hikes to higher camps on Ama Dablam. It is to help you adjust to high altitude and avoid acute mountain sickness during the summit push.
We have shared our Ama Dablam climbing plan below. After reaching the summit, return to base camp and follow the same trail back to Lukla. A short flight from Lukla will bring you back to Kathmandu.
Ama Dablam climbing route- SouthWest Route
Below, we have shared our Mount Ama Dablam climbing strategy with all of our high camps details and climbing route description:
Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600 m/15,091 ft)
Our Ama Dablam Base Camp is at 4,600 meters on grassy terrain. The area is huge. Climbers even play volleyball or soccer to keep themselves warm and active.
Each season, there are around 7 to 10 climbing groups, so the Ama Dablam Base Camp is not too crowded. You will spend the longest time in base camp, so we make it as accommodating and comfortable as possible.
We will set up our permanent camp. There will be a crew of helpers, cooks, and doctors at the base camp to assist you during the expedition period.
Yak Camp (5,182 m/17,000 ft): 3-4 hours
Yak Camp is our second primary station, where we keep our heavy climbing gear and oxygen tanks. It is also a great point to acclimate between the base camp and Camp I.
From Ama Dablam Base Camp, you will climb along the southwest ridge to reach the Yak Camp. Our crew will take care of setting up the tents and making meals for you.
Camp I (5,700 m/18,800 ft): 3 hours
From Yak Camp, Camp I is located close by. You will mostly walk on an easygoing rocky area that stretches around 100 meters. On the way, you can see huge rocks and also climb a simple fourth-class piece with no fixed rope set up.
Camp I is situated on a 60º slope. There is not much space on Camp I, so climbing groups have to coordinate with each other to set up the tents. Only 6 to 7 tents can fit at Camp I.
Camp II (5,950 m/19,521 ft): 3 hours
Camp I to Camp II is the most technical section of the Ama Dablam. Leaving Camp I, you will climb on a simple fourth-class level stone edge, gaining around 300 meters of elevation.
The exposure with massive drop-offs on both sides of the climbing route makes this area very thrilling. Towards the end of the level ridge, you will climb the Yellow Tower (6 meters tall).
It is considered as French Fourth Class, North American YDS 5.5, and British Severe. Upon climbing the Yellow Tower, you will feel the true height and high exposure on all sides.
Camp III (6,200 m/20,341 ft): 2 hours
The route between Camp II and Camp III on Mount Ama Dablam is mixed ice and snow terrain that you climb using fixed ropes throughout the way. Our Sherap team will fix the ropes and assist you during climbing.
You will see a spectacular view of Mt. Kantega, Mt. Kusum Kanguru, and a view of Ama Dablam Base Camp on the way. At 6,150 meters, you will cross the Mushroom Ridge and arrive at Camp III.
*Strong, experienced climbers usually go from Camp II to the Ama Dablam summit. But we make Camp III to provide our climbers one last break to prepare themselves before the summit push.
*Camp III has high avalanche risk, so we spend as little time as possible here.
*From Yellow Tower to Camp III, the route is 55º almost the whole way.
Summit (6,812 m/22,349 ft): 10 hours
From Camp III to the summit and back to Camp II, most climbers take around 10 hours. The summit push begins at around 12:00 AM. The route is already fixed with ropes by our Sherpa climbers.
On the way to the summit of Ama Dablam, you will climb two challenging snow pitches (40º+) on the Dablam side. Towards the end of the Dablam side, you will traverse a fluted 30º to 50º snowfield.
It leads to the summit of Mount Ama Dablam. The Ama Dablam summit is known as one of the most exquisite summits in the world. You will be surrounded by giants like Lhotse, Nuptse, Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Makalu, and Shishapangma.
Ama Dablam expedition in spring and autumn comparison
We have made a table comparing the Ama Dablam expedition in spring and autumn below to give you a better idea and help you pick the best time for your trip:
Spring (mid-March to May) | Autumn (mid-September to November) |
Fewer climbers | More climbers |
A lot of snow and ice on the mountain | Snow and ice melt on the mountain |
Added snow and ice challenges | Perfect climbing condition |
Longer daylight hours | Shorter daylight hours |
Comparatively cold climate | Warm climate and crisp, clean air |
Chance of snow showers chance | Avalanche-prone on Camp III |
Ama Dablam's difficulty and requirements
Like any other mountain, Ama Dablam has its own unique set of challenges and potential hazards. It is important that anyone planning to climb Mt. Ama Dablam possesses a strong high-altitude mountaineering experience and knowledge of alpine-style climbing techniques.
Mt. Ama Dablam is one of the highly technical mountains in the Himalayas. It involves a long climbing distance and hard multi-pitch climbing sections. Likewise, technical and belayed roping with protection is required on Ama Dablam.
While we take care of logistics and pair you with a strong, reliable Sherpa leader, it is crucial that climbers are in good shape and have a clear understanding of the technical aspects of the climb.
Climbing Ama Dablam is teamwork. Sherpas couldn't drag you up the mountain and bring you back. You have to actively participate and possess the necessary skills and experience.
- You should know rope techniques, rock climbing, and ice climbing.
- You must have climbed the 6,000-meter peak.
- Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with a super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections.
- Climbing, scrambling, and traversing with crampons for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surfaces.
- Multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c.
- Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if, by any chance, climbers slip and slide.
Ama Dablam expedition cost and 2026/2027 booking
Our Ama Dablam expedition cost is well-priced to offer the best service and safety without any compromise. Your money is secured with us. You will get the best value for your money by doing the Ama Dablam expedition with our team.
Our Ama Dablam expedition cost starts at USD 6000 per person. Bookings are open for the Ama Dablam expedition 2026 departure. Get your seat early to enjoy our special holiday price.
If you have any questions or confusion about our Ama Dablam expedition package or want to customize the Ama Dablam expedition itinerary, feel free to talk to our team.
We will be more than happy to assist you in curating a perfect Ama Dablam expedition for you and help you reach the summit of one of the most stunning mountains in the Himalayas safely and successfully.
Why climb Ama Dablam with Adventure Magic Treks and Expedition?
You will get IFMGA and NMA-certified mountain guides with us. Our 1:1 Sherpa/Client ratio ensures your safety during Ama Dablam climbing. We are one of the well-established trekking and expedition companies based in Nepal.
Our numerous years of expertise in the Himalayas make us a reliable climbing partner for Ama Dablam. We make sure every aspect of the Ama Dablam expedition is well organized, including permits, transportation, guide, porters, accommodation, meals, etc.
Likewise, we provide pre-climbing training at the Ama Dablam Base Camp and all essential information. Climbing with our team means you’ll not only reach the top of Mt. Ama Dablam but also learn a lot about technical climbing in the Himalayas.
Ama Dablam expedition is a lifetime opportunity for aspiring mountaineers, and climbing with a reliable partner like us makes the trip hassle-free, safe, and satisfying!
