Mera and Island are the two well-known trekking peaks in Nepal.The ascent of the Mera and Island peaks as well as the ascension of the treacherous, picturesque, and difficult Amphu Lapcha pass add extra significance to this journey.It's among the most challenging treks and climbs that Nepal has to offer.To ensure proper acclimatization before each participant summits the two trekking peaks at over 6000 meters, crosses the less-traveled Amphu Lapcha pass, and hikes through the remote valleys of Hinku and Imja tse in the Everest region, we have planned the Mera and Island peaks expedition route. This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity not to be missed in the Khumbu region.
With a height of 6460 meters, Mera Peak provides fantastic mountain summit excitement. It involves a long ascent to the summit that starts at a high elevation yet is never very difficult or frightful. After completing the Mera Peak ascent and Amphu Laptsa traverse crossing, you have the opportunity to test your climbing abilities on Island Peak (6189 meters), which is a little more challenging and strenuous while being lower in elevation. The view is just breathtaking from the top of these two hills. We offer a specific climbing preparation course at base camp to make sure you are capable and confident enough to safely summit both of these hiking peaks in the Himalayas.The Amphu Labtsa pass requires difficult climbing skills to cross safely, but our climbing guides and support crew will build ropes so you can abseil from the craggy peak. This method of descent is safe for the entire expedition crew. Additionally, our support team erects ropes on the thick, dark-blue glacier ice that runs from the summit of the Amphu Laptsa pass to base camp.
This incredible expedition starts with an adrenaline-pumping flight to Lukla, from where the ascent to Mera Island Peak over Amphu Laptsa pass will start. While the upper Hinku valley's desolate alpine regions can be found higher up, we follow the usual route to Mera Peak's summit by hiking through Tangnang's lush rhododendron and pine forests up to Mera base camp. We go eastward after summiting Mera Peak while investigating a less traveled route that leads to Makalu Base Camp and the isolation of the Hinku valley.We made our camp at Seto Pokhari, a sacred lake at a height of over 5000 meters, nestled behind Chamlang's magnificent battlements, with Lhotse and Everest clearly visible.
Our next challenge on the way to Island Peak base camp is the difficult Amphu Labtsa pass at 5700 meters, with its perilous technical descent. Your memories of the stunning summit panorama will last a lifetime.
Finally, we descend to Lukla through the Thyangboche monastery. We stay at nearby tea houses while making the trek from Island Peak to Lukla.Although it is advised, you don't need to have any prior climbing expertise because we will teach you all the essential mountaineering skills at base camps.
At the airport you will be met by our representative and transferred to the Hotel & briefing about your trip then welcome dinner in Nepali restaurent when you could get joy of Nepali typical food with cultural dance show.
After breakfast,You will take to the key attractions in Kathmandu at the pilgrimage sites of Hindus temple Pashupatinath, the world biggest Bouddhanath Stupa and visit Swyambhunath Stupa also known as monkey temple. After exploring the surrounding areas visit historical Kathmandu Durbar Square with temple, unique architectures and Kumari (living goddess). Evening pre-trip discussion and introduce with our fellow trekking staff for your adventure trip.
We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straight away for our first camp at Puiyan.
After breakfast cross the Poyan Khola, then we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridge-line overlooking the Khare Khola. Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma. Many expedition members have been made welcome by the villagers here, spending several pleasant hours warming themselves in front of an open fire in the enveloping and welcoming atmosphere of the local's traditional Sherpa homes.
Today we climb the half hour or so to the Pangum La (3175m/10410ft) and our gateway toward the Hinku Valley, and now start to head eastward and then in a northerly direction. Today is a solid descent to the Hinku River of at least 900 meters depending on which path we take, and then a climb up to our camp high on the other side near the Surke La. We are once again traveling through a mix of terraced slopes containing grain crops interspersed by undisturbed forests of the upper temperate zone; maples, rhododendrons and fir.
After breakfast we climb up to the Source La (3085m/10118ft) we now follow the spine of the Surkie Danda ridge northwards towards Mera and the Hinku and camp part way along at a yak herders clearing or kharka. These next few days are far from teahouse and trekkers trails and should be some of the finest Himalayan wilderness trekking of the trip.
Continuing along the ridge, we climb higher and higher over knolls (lumps in the ridge) of 4000 meters and then 4500 meters. The terrain has now elevated well above the tree line and is grassy slopes and rocky outcrops and cliffs, where birds of prey may be seen flying overhead such as Griffon vulture, lammergeyer or eagles. We then descend to a camp set near a series of five lakes, Panch Pokhari, set beside the river of the Chunbu Kharka.
Today is a rest day and a lovely natural setting to explore further.
Our route now contours around many ridges on the eastern side of the Hinku, descending lower into forests of rhododendron. Near the valley floor we encounter the devastation caused by a natural damn at the head of the valley bursting in 1998. The valley has been destroyed, leaving boulders, dead trees and silt where once there were old growth forests and meadows. Our campsite is on a pleasant grassy patch, on the now much higher bank of the rocky riverbed.
Today we are now in the Hinku Valley proper, and cross over by way of a yak herder's bridge and join the main trail. The first settlement we stay at the busy village of Kote, primarily servicing the trekking groups that come through for Mera. As a result of the tremendous washout of boulders and debris, the trail follows the riverbed mostly, a good trail among rounded stones and silt. We gain our first views of dramatic peaks of the valley; Kusum Kanguru to our left that stands directly before us. The path then weaves up on to the pastures on the left hand side and pleasant easy trails through to Tagnag. Today we also enjoy our first views of Mera, initially at the confluence of the Sanu Drangka above Kote, if the weather is clear we see the dramatic south face, and then on our final approach into Tagnag. We are now among mountains and starting to prepare for our climb.
Today we can experience an excellent valley opening out views to the north of the Hinku Nup glacier and the line of peaks beyond. Behind us is the dramatic spire of the less than romantically named 'Peak 35', which has yet to be climbed. Only the last section up to our base camp at Khare is steep and reminds us that we are gaining altitude. It's a short climb and we are there in good time for lunch.
A steady climb out of the valley and up through lateral moraine and grassy culverts to our last camp below the snowline. The route itself is fairly straightforward, there are objective hazards and good basic technique and awareness of changing conditions is vital for every individual.
These three days going to plan and the weather on our side, we would move up to a rock and glaciated camp just off the Mera La saddle at approx 5400m/17712ft. Plastic mountaineering boots are usually worn from base through to the summit bid and return. Whilst they feel clumsy they are perfect for the job, providing warmth, protection and stability for the variable terrain including loose rocks, snow and ice. Another camp is set half way up the long North Slope of the mountain, at about 5700m/18696ft near a rock knob. Although it is a shorter distance here, it can be difficult in poor conditions and you are at altitude and are harder and further than it first appears. The summit bid will be made early in the morning (anywhere from 2am to 5am) from this high camp, and take around 4 to 6 hours to make the summit. Whilst the distance doesn't look far, we can assure you it will be hard work, and all the preparations and a positive, tempered attitude will pay off here. It is usually necessary to rope up for much of the summit approach due to crevasse hazards along the route. The route can vary depending on the conditions of the season but usually skirts around a major shoulder in front of us to the back side of the mountain and then traverse in a fairly straightforward approach to the summit knob. As the light comes, we enjoy incredible views across to Baruntse (7129m), Chamlang (7319m) and Nau Lekh (6360m) with Makalu (8481m) looming behind.
Further to our left is Everest, peaking over several unnamed peaks of the Hinku. To the south we can see for miles down to the terrain. We aim to make the summit early/mid-morning and return to base camp after summit. The exact schedule will depend on many factors, including the weather, condition of the route and condition of the members. Our contingency of equipment and experienced staff and a time buffer, gives us a fair amount of flexibility to achieve success for all who have worked hard and consistently from the beginning of the expedition. The day will be long, and this is where all the training beforehand, the trek approach, and the right attitude will combine to give you stamina and confidence to be part of a sound team, with optimum chances for the summit.
We will need to make a relatively early start today. Once our porters are organized we will commence our most remote stages of the expedition. We descend into the Honku valley near to five large glacial lakes which sprawl out before us. They are known as Panch Pokhari (five lakes). The Amphu Laptsa pass is situated immediately at the head of the valley to our right and is basically the low point on the ridge between the Hunku and the Imja valleys. For this day or so we are in the Hunku. A new vista of peaks span out before us including Ama Dablam to the distant westward, and many unnamed peaks. Camp is set close to the rocks that lead up to the pass. On these stages we ask that members be flexible and co-operative. Camps will be set where conditions allow, and your leader will keep you advised as to each days plan.
Final preparations and gear checks for our pass crossing Amphu Laptsa.
After early breakfast an alpine start for our pass crossing. Once again, ferrying across all our loads together with all party members, crew, porters and members takes time. The approach to the pass from the Hunku is deceptive. Facing east and southward there is much more sun and little snow, just a collection of rocks that gradually lead up to the gap we travel through. On the north facing side we find steep slopes of snow that we must take care to descend by fixed ropes to the snow basins below and subsequent moraine and alpine valley beyond. The views from this pass crossing to the peaks of Khumbu are unmatched. Any spare moment one may have whilst we are climbing and descending will allow one to appreciate the spectacle of the peaks of the region.
Today, we heads further on to our journey with steep way climbing southern part then turning east to the main line of the valley. It then winds along or below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier. Continue short pleasant walking along a streamside leads to what we call "Big -rock. The route to the Amphu Lapcha lies to the southeast. A crisis cross route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a wide valley flanking the SW side of Island peak. We'll reach at Island peak base camp and overnight at tented camp.
Today, we heads further on to our journey with steep way climbing southern part then turning east to the main line of the valley. It then winds along or below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier. Continue short pleasant walking along a streamside leads to what we call "Big -rock. The route to the Amphu Lapcha lies to the southeast. A crisis cross route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a wide valley flanking the SW side of Island peak. We'll reach at Island peak base camp and overnight at tented camp.
After breakfast and packed camping stuff, we'll head on to the High camp from where we start our climb. Firstly the path leads up beyond base camp for several hundred meters before striking off left up the steep hillside. Initially sandy, the path soon turns to grass before becoming boulder strewn. As you climb the hill, you will see that the slope narrows and the path enter a steep rock channel nearby where we'll overnight at camp.
Today, day of our destination and as start our climb early morning through the rock gully. This is not difficult but there are several short rock steps to climb before you emerge on the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline, which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. You will need to rope up for the glacier as it contains several crevasses but it leads without difficulty, to a 100m/330ft snow and ice slope (40-45&176;) on which the guides will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge lead to the top. You can enjoy with success and brave to get a summit and after some picture taking of scenic view will descend all the way to Chhukung for overnight at teahouse.
The walk today will be easy heading downhill to a lower elevation from Chhukung the walk is pleasant and all the way to Tyangboche. After the Dingboche valley and getting down to bridge our route descends following the stream towards pangboche village, and further down to Tyangboche is one of the most beautiful place in the Himalaya the first thing that comes to your eye is the big Monastery or Gumba, then the large field with campsites and teahouses, lodges beneath the towering majestic beautiful peak Ama Dablam, Everest, Mt. Lhotse and Lhotse Shar towards north east and more peaks all around you.
After breakfast you will trek down to ayangboche for overnight that will be 5 hours walk.Tyangboche has the biggest Monastry of Khumbu and offers fantastic views of mt Everest,loste,Amadablam,thamserku and many other mountains.
After breakfast you will trek down to namche bazar for over night that will be 4 hours walk .
After breakfast you will trek all the way to lukla.it's down and flat way to reached to lukla.
After an early morning flight to Kathmandu our guide transfer you to your hotel then spend the day your self.
Today is free or last minute shopping for souvenirs or gift to your family, friends or relatives for you until your departure flight.
Clothing and Equipment For Peak Climbing:
Our main paramount is to offer safe & enjoyable trek for our clients. As part of the booking process, we will provide you with a comprehensive clothing and equipment list for the Island peak. Experienced trekkers will often take only a selection of these items based on what has worked in the past. Please find the equipment list below for your personal use during your travel with us.
Climbing Equipment:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Harness, Screw gate Carabineers, Descended abseil device, Prussic Loops, Plastic Mountaineering Boot
Foot wear:
Walking boots, Wool and liner socks, sandals
Clothing:
Waterproof jacket and trousers, Trekking trousers, Long sleeve shirts, Micro fleece, Mid to heavyweight fleece, Sleeveless or body warmer type fleece, Thermals or base layer for top & bottom (merino wool or synthetic), Fleece pants, Medium weight down jacket.
Hand wear:
Fleece gloves, Warms mittens and/or gloves .
Head wear:
Wool or fleece hat, Sun hat, Scarf, Head torch and extra batteries, Sunglasses.
Personal Equipment:
Sleeping bag, Backpack large enough to carry water bottles, camera, lunch and extra clothing, Stuff sacks for keeping your gear dry and organized, two water bottles (Nalgene wide mouth bottles are the best), Sunscreen and lip salve with a high SPF, Insect repellent, Water purification tablets (Pristine, Biox Aqua or Aqua Mira), Favorite snack food, Books, iPod and cards etc, Trekking poles, Camera with spare batteries and memory cards, Insurance certificate.
Travelling:
Duffle bag or large backpack for your personal gear on the trek (carried by a porter), Bring a small combination padlock to secure the bag, Travel clothes. You will need casual clothing for air travel days and time spent in Kathmandu, Toiletry bag include toilet paper, soap, towel, toothbrush, etc.
Personal first aid kit:
Any personal medications, Diamox (optional) helps with acclimatization.
Adventure Magic Treks always provide down jackets and down sleeping bags for all our trips. The above list is one 'rough guide' of kit which you'll need to consider before leaving home. Each trekker should carry one backpack for items required during the day. Your day backpack will contain items such as warm clothes, jacket, camera, water bottles, and personal first aid kit and day snacks. The rest of your personal equipment packed in a duffel bag or backpack will be carried by a porter. The maximum weight allowance is 15kgs/33 pounds that we strongly care of porter rights and solely against any exploitation on its operation.
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